The City of Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces
Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds form.
It is perhaps the last place you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. But one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with plump mauve berries on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've noticed people concealing heroin or other items in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who produce wine from several discreet city grape gardens nestled in private yards and community plots across the city. The project is too clandestine to possess an official name yet, but the group's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.
City Wine Gardens Around the Globe
To date, the grower's allotment is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of Paris's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and more than 3,000 grapevines with views of and within Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them throughout the globe, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens assist urban areas remain greener and ecologically varied. They protect open space from development by creating long-term, yielding agricultural units within urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those produced in cities are a product of the soils the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, local spirit, environment and history of a city," notes the president.
Unknown Eastern European Grapes
Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he grew from a plant left in his garden by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack again. "Here we have the mystery Polish grape," he says, as he removes bruised and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Efforts Across the City
The other members of the collective are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of vintage from France and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from approximately fifty vines. "I adore the aroma of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."
Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they keep cultivating from this land."
Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established over one hundred fifty plants perched on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, 60, is picking clusters of dusty purple dark berries from lines of plants slung across the hillside with the assistance of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can make interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of making wine."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins and enter the liquid," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries add preservatives to kill the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Environments and Inventive Approaches
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has assembled his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only problem faced by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to erect a fence on